Great Adventure Walks of the World

Travel often begins with a mad flurry to sort out transport, book accommodation, then a flight somewhere far away. We strap into our narrow, mid-air seats and watch the world turn under us. When we get to our destination, too often we sit in a bus and watch a city go by. We become spectators…

What to pack for the Inca Trail

Stretching 43 km across verdant valleys of lush greenery, the Inca Trail is one of the most popular hikes in the world. The trail must be done with a registered operator and there is a limit to the number of trekkers who have access each day. During the hike, your main luggage can be stored…

Inca Ruins of Cusco & Ollantaytambo

I’d heard so much about Cusco even before I arrived. How the city was the capital of the Incan empire, how it was laid out in the shape of a panther, one of the three animals representing the upper world, the current world and the underworld (the others are the condor and the snake), how…

Arequipa: Convents, Condors & Colonial Splendour

Arequipa by night Arequipa, the White City, is a graceful confection of colonial era buildings spread beneath the white peak of volcanic El Misti. The second largest city in Peru by population, Arequipa is filled with interesting sites, like the Santa Catalina monastery. a cloistered convent with brilliant, brightly painted walls. Courtyard in Santa Catalina…

Lake Titicaca Homestay

Lake Titicaca is the famed birthplace of the Incas, where Manoc Kapac and his sister-wife Mama Ocllo emerged to establish the Inca empire. The lake is the highest navigable lake in the world at 3,811m Its peaceful, blue-green waters greet us as we climb aboard the motorboat that will take us to Uros Islands, the…

Nazca Lines, Desert Mummies & Sand Dunes

It’s sunset as we climb the rickety watch tower by the side of the Pan American highway. The landscape is flat, desolate, bleached of colour. There is a dramatic sunset on the horizon. We are here to see the Nazca Lines, a series of ancient formations on the desert floor in Southern Peru. General consensus…

The Inca Trail: Day 4

An early wake up call, at 3am, and a brilliant sky filled with stars await on the last day of the Inca Trail. I pack hurriedly – the porters are leaving us this morning, but will drop our gear off in Agua Calientes. I mustn’t be late as that may cause them to miss their…

The Inca Trail: Day 3

After two brilliant days of clear skies on the Inca Trail, the heavens open on us as we begin our trek. This high up on the mountain, we are in cloud forest, and the humidity hovers at almost 100%. The rain pelts down, blanketing sound and sight. I double up, putting on my weatherproof jacket…