Salta & Jujuy, Argentina

I took the Pullman bus from San Pedro de Atacama over the border to Argentina, passing through Jujuy. It was a day bus, semi-cama, 10 hours. Not a long bus ride, as far as South American bus rides go, and the scenery was interesting enough to merit a day bus. There was a marked change…

Getting to Alta Gracia from Cordoba, Argentina

Alta Gracia is a small, sleepy town just an hour’s bus ride away from Cordoba, in Argentina’s north west. The two main sights here are the Jesuit estancia and Che Guevara’s childhood house, now turned into a museum. To get to Alta Gracia from Cordoba by public bus, catch a regular colectivo from the main…

Patagonia: Glacier Hiking

“Stick your bum out” advises my rugged up guide, as he tramps up and down the ice. He makes it look so easy, but my first few steps on the glacier are tentative. Wearing crampons, we make our ungainly way across the blue ice, marvelling at the views. I am ice hiking on the Perito…

Iguazu Falls, Argentina

We hear the roar, minutes before we first glimpse the white rush of the water. Iguazu Falls, on the border between Argentina and Brazil, is a 82m high, 3000m wide waterfall made up of different cascades, all throwing up great sprays of mist, set in the midst of verdant, tropical jungle. The falls are spectacular…

Buenos Aires, Queen Amongst Cities

On my second trip into Buenos Aires, I find myself enchanted once again. The grandeur of the European buildings, the hectic bustle of Calle Florida, the sensual rhythms of tango, the cobblestones of San Telmo and the bright colours of La Boca weave a potent spell, but it is the porteƱos of Buenos Aires –…